1993 Yamaha 2 Stroke 115 HP. Looks like a long shaft. $600 OBO. I can assist loading it into a pickup or trailer with a tractor.
This engine has 761 hours on it. I’ve owned if for the last 4 years and put maybe 70 hours on it. It was used on a 24 foot pontoon boat and typically for launching / retrieving and beaching at campsites on Lake Shasta only. Most of the time the motor was unused as the boat is solar powered and trolling was done with a Minn Kota 110 # thrust at 1.5 miles per hour.
There is one main problem, which could be an easy solution. But I have not narrowed it down all the way to what is causing the issue. In early December 2024 I was returning from fishing around Ski Island. I wanted to be back at Jones Valley, camping for the night before it got dark. So rather than trolling, I used the engine and was travelling at 5-6 MPH. The engine slowed and died. I did not notice any smoke at that time. So I used the trolling motor and made it to the dock. Tried to start the motor to see what was wrong. Started normally, but with huge clouds of smoke, so turned it off. Trolled to a camping spot. Tried again, and the smoking was huge! It wasn’t going to get any better. So shut it down and took the boat home the next day.
For some reason, the engine oil tank was about ¾ inch above the full line. I’d never seen that before. So I emptied the tank and added oil with the manual override switch. 2 cycle oil flowed into the tank. I took the float switch out to test the sensor. When upside down, the remote tank did not pump. When right side up, the remote tank pumped as it should, the low oil alarm came on, and then quit sounding as the tank got to about the ½ way mark. As the tank level got closer to the full level, I turned the ignition off thinking that maybe the screen on the sensor was not letting oil into the rod where the sensor was. I let it set a little then turned the ignition on again. The remote continued pumping and topped pumping at the full mark. I probably should have used carb cleaner or some solvent on the filter at this point, but it looked perfectly clean, so did not.
Put a large barrel under the motor and filled it well above the cooling water intake. Started the engine. Smoke everywhere. Took the carburetor housing off and found lots of 2 cycle oil there. It was easily getting into the lower carburetor and that was the source of the smoke. Cleaned it all out and started the engine again. Smoke everywhere. I thought maybe if I let it run for a while the smoke would decrease. It did not. I was not able to find what was causing too much oil to get to the carburetors in the air intake box. It would seem to be the oil pump or something else.
As I have been wanting to get a smaller and 4 stroke engine for some time, I started to research the cost. After a couple days ordered a 4 stroke 20 HP Suzuki remote.
I spent a day getting the heavy 2 stroke off the back of the boat and onto a stand with the intention of fixing it myself when convenient or selling it. It looks like a long shaft, As it is raining and under a tarp, I couldn’t get an accurate measurement, but can when the weather clears. Definitely not a short shaft. It is 20+ inches from top of transom to cavitation plate.
So I’m posting an ad to see what the response is like. Someone in need of an engine and knows what they are doing may find this to be an easy fix. There is also one short piece of linkage that should be replaced.
It does not appear that the motor was ever used in salt water. It looks very clean inside.
From the time I bought the boat/motor, the lower unit did take on some water creating some creaminess after each trip. I didn’t want to deal with fixing this so I put fresh gear oil in after each use. About 6 months ago I pulled the lower unit off and inspected the water pump. The impeller looked good so I must have put it back in without buying a new one as I just checked on Amazon and there was no history that I had bought a new one. However, I did put 2 new rear bearing seals in just in front of the propeller to stop any water from getting in.
I lifted the motor off with a tractor and forks, placing it carefully on a stand, where it sits under a tarp.
So that is the basic information on this engine. If interested, please let me know by email and I can answer any further questions, and set up a time for you to see it if interested. I’ll be taking the shifter / throttle control off, along with the cables and electrical harness, which can then go with the motor. I’m waiting to do this until the new motor and control box come..
I described the experience to an outboard motor shop and they said I should start the sale price at $2000. There has been noresponse, so I've dropped the price to $600 OBO. For someone who knows how to fix outboards, this could be an inexensive way to get a powerful motor in good condition. All the parts are present, including the remote 2-cycle oil reservoir, remote control and cables, and a Whale Tail type fin for the anti-cavitation plate. No reasonable offer refused.